December 2021 – LAZIN MAGAZINE

Fashion
Art

GLP-1 and Cosmeceutical Skincare Usage Spike Bathroom Mini Fridge Demand

As shoppers incorporate weight-loss drugs and more sophisticated skincare into their daily routines, a cottage industry is growing. [...]

Inside M&S’s Swanky Oxford Street Revamp

The makeover of its landmark Pantheon store serves as the testing ground for CEO Stuart Machin’s broader vision: modernising M&S’s store fleet, capturing younger fashion shoppers, and making its long-awaited [...]

Why Copenhagen Fashion Week Still Stands Apart

The sustainability-focused showcase returns next week with regional staples Marimekko and By Malene Birger coming back, the debut of Collina Strada, and a continued focus on community that's made it [...]

The Met’s Next Fashion Blockbuster Will Spotlight Galliano

The fashion icon, as famous for his singular talent as a scandal that cost him one of the industry’s top jobs, will become one of only three living designers to [...]

The BoF Podcast | The Patient Work of Turning Around Dior

This week LVMH's fashion and leather goods division returned to growth for the first time in nearly two years, with Dior as one of the highlights. Last December, before a [...]

Luxury’s Mid-Year Review

How are designer revamps landing? Can logo-free luxury stay on top? BoF checks in on LVMH and Kering’s Q2, the French presidential race and more. [...]

LVMH Sells Patou Back to Cosmetics Magnate Dilesh Mehta

The historic French perfume name, which had been relaunched by LVMH in 2019 as a fashion label geared to younger shoppers, has been acquired by the Mehta family, already shareholders [...]

Will the US’ Forced Labour Tariffs Protect Workers?

The new duties’ focus on forced labour is widely seen as a pretext for the Trump administration to rebuild its tariff wall. But could they actually help address forced labour [...]

Yeezy Has Officially Re-Entered the Zeitgeist

The brand from rapper Ye (formerly Kanye West) is back on major retail shelves thanks to a new partnership with JD Sports. [...]

Abbvie Earnings Beat Estimates as Botox Shows Signs of Revival

Abbvie reported second quarter profit and sales that topped expectations, driven by strong demand across its immunology and neuroscience franchises and further signs of a recovery in Botox. [...]

Can SPF Brands Turn Gen Z Off Tanning?

A coalition of sunscreen brands is pushing back against social media’s “tanmaxxing” obsession, raising questions about whether the industry’s sun-safe messaging has lost its way. [...]

Puma Results Show Progress on Turnaround

The German sports brand posted a narrower loss in the second quarter as it pushed ahead with an effort to restore growth next year. [...]

DSM-Firmenich’s Fragrance-Led Core Profit Beat Sends Shares Higher

DSM-Firmenich beat market expectations for second-quarter core earnings, said full-year sales growth should reach the upper end of its target range on the back of broad-based volume growth. [...]

Why Is ‘Influencer’ Still a Dirty Word?

Influencer marketing represents a nearly $44 billion dollar industry that’s set to surpass traditional media, but a stigma around its personalities and economics still persists. Should it? [...]

Luxury’s Summer of Muddling Through

This week’s LVMH and Kering results suggest a fragile recovery is underway in the face of sluggish Chinese demand, succession drama, wildfires and heat waves. [...]

Reformation Valued at $886 Million in NYSE Debut

The Permira-backed womenswear retailer and some of its shareholders had raised $211 million in its IPO on Wednesday, with shares opening at $15 apiece. [...]

Puig Reports First-Half Revenue Growth After Estée Lauder Talks End

The Spanish beauty company reported first-half revenue growth on strong demand for makeup from Charlotte Tilbury. [...]

Post-Exit Founders on What Makes a Brand Worth Buying

This week, Daniela Morosini chats with post-exit founders about the unwritten rules strategics play by, and dives into the start of earnings season. [...]

Canada Goose Beats Revenue Estimates as Demand Holds Up

The outerwear brand beat expectations for first-quarter revenue, but new US tariffs on Canadian could affect future earnings. [...]

Steven Madden Tops Expectations and Lifts Full-Year Outlook

The retailer raised its full-year revenue forecast again as its integration of luxury brand Kurt Geiger last year provided a tailwind. [...]

An Elemis Sale Update

The prestige skin and spa brand, which is close to finding a buyer, aims to more than double its sales in the next five years, according to documents viewed by [...]

Prada Group Sales Growth Suggests Soft Landing for Miu Miu

Quarterly sales from Miu Miu grew 3 percent, in line with the previous quarter, as growth slows at the fashion house after a period of outpacing the sector. [...]

Reformation and Its Backers Raise $210.9 Million in IPO

The womenswear brand and shareholders including private-equity backer Permira raised new funds in an IPO that priced shares at the bottom of the marketed range. [...]

Del Vecchio Family Clashes Over $46 Billion Ray-Ban Fortune

Leonardo Del Vecchio tried to ensure the fortune he built as founder of EssilorLuxottica would survive him intact. Instead, family turmoil threatens to unravel his legacy. [...]

Adidas Shares Plunge After World Cup Spend Dents Profit

Shares in the company fell the most on record after its marketing outlay for the World Cup resulted in lower-than-expected quarterly profit. [...]

Luxury’s Next Hotspot in India

Fuelled by wealth from its tech and pharmaceutical sectors, Hyderabad has attracted brands such as Chanel and Michael Kors to a city long dominated by domestic designers. [...]

Inside Macao’s Bid to Become a Luxury Retail Destination

Mall concept and lifestyle destination operator Sands Shoppes Macao is developing its luxury retail offering to diversify the city’s casino-led economy. BoF sits down with global retail president David Sylvester [...]

L’Oréal Sales Rise on Hair-Care Demand

The French beauty giant's mass division grew faster than anticipated, largely driven by professional styling products. [...]

The Debrief | Why Everyone’s Reading Clothing Labels Again

As shoppers swap “sustainable” for “healthy,” BoF senior editorial associate Shayeza Walid joins senior correspondent Sheena Butler-Young to unpack why fabric content has become fashion’s newest flashpoint — and why [...]

British Fashion Council to Boost UK Fashion Beyond London

The new national initiative, Fashion Britain, aims to increase growth, innovation and participation in the industry across key cities. [...]

AI Search Is Coming to Fashion Websites

Brands are embedding ChatGPT-like tools directly into their e-commerce sites, with AI platform Daydream spurring adoption as it opens up its technology to third parties. [...]

Hermès’ Chief Watches China’s Pork Prices to Gauge Luxury Demand

When it comes to gauging the possibility of a sales rebound for his luxury group in China, Hermès executive chairman Axel Dumas turns to an unusual metric. [...]

Announcing Stone Island and Meshki on BoF Careers

Check out this week’s new partners and openings on BoF Careers, the global marketplace for fashion and beauty talent. [...]

Opinion: Bernard Arnault Can’t Avoid the LVMH Succession Question

The founder and CEO of LVMH hit out at a six-part series in French daily Le Monde with an entertaining rebuttal but his missive isn’t the right way for Europe’s [...]

Hermès Shares Dive as Sales and Chinese Weakness Disappoint

Hermès second quarter sales rose 7 percent, lifted by a recovery in tourism in ⁠Europe and strong demand in the US. [...]

How Beauty Brands Scale Past Retail Exclusivity

Expansion beyond an exclusive retail arrangement brings new growth, but brands must have the resources to make sure both old and new partners remain happy. [...]

Stone Island’s CEO on Growing a Brand Without Selling Out

Robert Triefus believes his role as a brand leader is not to invent authenticity. It is to protect it and leave it stronger than it is found. Two years of [...]

Shein Discloses FTC Probe in US, Warns of Significant Payments

According to documents the ultra-fast-fashion company filed in connection with its planned Hong Kong IPO, Shein is cooperating with the investigation and could face significant fines. [...]

Frasers Group Takes a Position in Burberry

The billionaire Mike Ashley’s investment arm disclosed Tuesday it holds an interest worth a potential 4.2 percent of the voting rights in Burberry. [...]

EssilorLuxottica Beats Forecasts, AI Glasses and Myopia Products Drive Growth

The Franco-Italian eyewear maker reported a 15 percent rise in first-half profit, beating expectations, while revenue growth was ⁠driven by strong demand for AI-enabled glasses ⁠ myopia products. [...]

Whoop Names Kyle Leahy Chief Commercial Officer

Leahy joins the wearables brand from Glossier, where she was chief executive for three years. [...]

Kering Sales Rise 2%, Gucci Beats Estimates

Kering reported organic growth for the first time in three years. Gucci’s second-quarter sales remained in negative territory, but declined less than expected. [...]

Worldview | Colombiamoda Expands Its Latin American Reach

This week’s round-up of global markets fashion business news also features the Ghanaian textile sector, Russian e-tailer Wildberries and the record fine incurred by Chinese marketplace AliExpress. [...]

Chinese Jeweller Laopu Gold’s Shares Drop on Growth Outlook

The jeweller lost $2.1 billion in market value after forecasting first-half 2026 revenue growth of up to 66 percent, a sharp slowdown from last year that unsettled investors in one [...]

Unilever Lifts Outlook on Strongest Volume Growth in Over A Decade

Unilever ‌upgraded its annual forecast on Tuesday, as consumers reached for brands like Vaseline and Dove despite household budget concerns stemming from the Iran war. [...]

J&J to Pay $5.5 Billion to Settle Talc-Related Cancer Claims

Johnson & Johnson on Monday said it agreed to a $5.5 billion commitment to resolve years of litigation related to claims that its talc products caused ovarian cancer. [...]

China’s Beauty Industry Gets AI Makeover to Close Innovation Gap

The country’s beauty companies are utilising the technology to compress lengthy development timelines, and deliver trendy ingredients such as PDRN faster than ever. [...]

Lenzing Closes UK, Austria Sites in Turnaround Bid

The closures are the latest in a series of cost-cutting and refinancing measures at the textile maker, which has faced headwinds from competition in China and India. [...]

BoF Professional Masterclass | Sports Marketing Strategies That Work

Join us for our next BoF Professional Masterclass on Wednesday, August 5, at 17:00 BST / 12:00 EDT as BoF’s Marc Bain and Mike Sykes unpack the strategies Uniqlo, Sephora [...]

Case Study | Sports Marketing Strategies That Work

Genuinely impactful sports marketing has become harder to come by as fashion and beauty companies have saturated the marketplace. But there are still valuable opportunities available for brands that can [...]

Gagosian exits locations in Basel and London's Burlington Arcade

The closures are the latest mega-gallery real estate downsizes this summer [...]

‘Art-world summer camp’: the Aspen Art Fair prioritises immersion over expansion

The boutique fair is attracting increasingly ambitious exhibitors while leaning into the mountain town's distinctive character [...]

Collector Bernardo Paz plans new museum in Brazil next-door to Inhotim

Although no longer involved with Inhotim, Paz appears to be reviving its model of art pavilions in a botanical landscape [...]

UK artist Conrad Shawcross sounds alarm on Jodrell Bank Observatory funding cuts

The Unesco World Heritage site, located in northwest England, is home to the UK's largest telescope [...]

Two US ambassadors have displayed Van Goghs in their London residence—but Donald Trump's pick for the job can't quite follow suit

Winfield House, home to American representatives to the UK, is hidden away in Regent’s Park—and has hosted a series of the Dutchman’s masterpieces [...]

Japan’s 400-year-old Kumamoto Castle damaged by 7.1 magnitude earthquake

The quake has caused damage and disruption to more than a dozen other cultural sites in the Kumamoto Prefecture [...]

In Gregg Araki’s new film, an artist and her assistant test boundary between mentorship and exploitation

The art-world satire "I Want Your Sex", starring Olivia Wilde and Cooper Hoffman, deals in questions of power, consent and liberation [...]

Family of donor who helped establish Canadian Museum for Human Rights to pause support over Palestine exhibit

The Asper family’s foundation last donated to the museum in 2023, and Gail Asper says she has indefinitely paused a personal gift of C$50,000 over a display about the violent [...]

Comment | The Obama Presidential Center aims high, like a Gothic cathedral

The building’s epic art commissions play a big role, compelling visitors upwards [...]

‘Amazon-style’ conditions: Prospect union members overwhelmingly vote to strike at London's V&A museums

V&A staff represented by the Public and Commercial Services Union are also considering industrial action [...]

Lessons from Notre-Dame inform reconstruction of Copenhagen Stock Exchange building

After fire destroyed half of the historic red-brick structure in 2024, its owners’ ambitious goal is to rebuild even faster than the French did with the Paris cathedral [...]

Treasures from Ancient Egypt’s ‘Golden City’, and the stories of the people who made them, revealed in San Francisco show

Twenty artefacts from Pharaoh Amenhotep III's abandoned city, discovered on Luxor’s west bank in 2021, are part of the exhibition at the de Young Museum [...]

Artist starts legal case against Meta for deleting her Instagram account

Emma Shapiro and her lawyers are fighting the “loss of her artistic archive, audience, professional visibility and space for public debate” [...]

Arts groups in US cities that increased culture funding during Covid have rebounded more quickly: report

While municipal funding covered a modest share of organisations’ expenses, it had an outsized impact in cities that increased their cultural support, a new study from DataArts shows [...]

Betye Saar, assemblage artist who reframed racist and sexist imagery, has died, aged 99

The legendary Los Angeles artist reframed charged images and objects, embraced printmaking and developed elaborate, transporting installations [...]

English Heritage debuts daily prize draw for ‘private time’ at Stonehenge this August

Winners and their booking group will receive ‘a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to stand within the ancient stones with no one else around’ before opening hours [...]

Sites in Iran, Lebanon and Palestine among 25 new additions to Unesco’s World Heritage List

Three new properties were inscribed under emergency procedures and simultaneously placed on the World Heritage in Danger List [...]

Curating for the new No. 10 North: six art suggestions for the UK's prime minister

As Andy Burnham opens a new office in the city of Manchester, we offer up some suitably northern works for the walls [...]

Trump administration’s new tariff regime exempts art and antique imports from most countries

After the US Supreme Court struck down the White House’s previous tariffs, Trump and his trade representative have imposed new tariffs of 10% or more on around 80 countries [...]

Artists visualise environmental fragility and resilience on New York’s Governors Island

A new public work by Alan Michelson and an exhibition by Leslie Wayne explore climate change and fragile ecosystems [...]

Culture minister Catherine Pégard reveals ‘national security plan’ following another major museum theft in France

The French Culture Ministry has budgeted €30m over three years to improve security at local museums and has issued a 33-point action plan [...]

Guggenheim Abu Dhabi announces opening date

The latest museum in the Guggenheim network will open on 11 December 2026, twenty years after its original 2006 announcement [...]

Royal College of Art and Norwich University of the Arts announce jointly awarded undergraduate degrees

Undergraduate art students will be able to study for the jointly awarded degree based at the Norwich University of the Arts from September 2027 [...]

Banksy statue in central London could become permanent as Westminster council deliberates

The statue, which has drawn hordes of onlookers, will remain in St James's for at least the next few weeks, with the council aiming to make a decision on its [...]

Trump orders signage to be erected outside Smithsonian museum warning visitors of political bias

US president’s executive order comes after the director of the Smithsonian’s National Museum of American History was grilled by a congressional subcommittee [...]

Possible ancient human remains and Maya ceramics found in Mexican cenote

The discovery deep inside a sinkhole in Playa del Carmen has prompted a new research project to date and protect the remains [...]

Dia Azzawi donates work to charity auction supporting displaced people in Lebanon

Works by the London-based Iraqi artist and 29 other artists from the Arab world will be sold to help humanitarian organisations working in Beirut and beyond [...]

Art Dealers Association of America's fair returns after one-year hiatus with a leaner line-up

The New York fair is coming back to the Park Avenue Armory with 63 exhibitors after a 'strategic pause', as executive director Kinsey Robb says the focus is on value [...]

Low Kee Hong chosen to curate Biennale of Sydney's next edition

Low, who is the creative director of Factory International in Manchester, will lead the artistic team for the prominent Australian biennial’s 26th edition [...]

The Artists Information Company, the UK's largest artists’ membership organisation, relaunches as Artists Now

Founded in 1980, the organisation has also developed a Green Manifesto to guide artist members toward a more environmentally responsible practice [...]

Music, Fashion, Film—Photography? Charli xcx image acquired by London's National Portrait Gallery

The portrait of the pop star, who released her latest album earlier this month, can be found in the museum's History Makers space [...]

Trove of art by Basquiat, Javier Calleja and others at play in mammoth Vancouver real estate lawsuit

A lawsuit related to the collapse of the developer Coromandel Properties includes an art collection purchased for $4.9m that was used as collateral for a loan [...]

Earthquake damages 16th-century church in Peru

A 5.1-magnitude quake on 18 July caused the collapse of the roof and part of the facade of the colonial-era Iglesia Apóstol Santiago, one of the oldest churches in the [...]

Artists’ monumental hot dog sculpture, now with patriotic toppings, returns to Times Square

Jen Catron and Paul Outlaw’s 65ft-long “Hot Dog in the City” is back on display in New York on the occasion of the 250th anniversary of the United States’ founding [...]

Buffalo AKG Art Museum will split leadership duties in two and promote internally for new directors

Chief curator Cathleen Chaffee and deputy director Jillian Jones will serve as artistic director and executive director, respectively [...]

Unesco adds ancient Greek city Tauric Chersonese in Crimea to World Heritage in Danger list

The decision comes after calls by Ukraine to protect the archaeological site, which is now managed by a Russian Orthodox cleric appointed by Vladimir Putin [...]

Viking centre that loaned ship for ‘The Odyssey’ says that it has not been compensated by Universal for repairs

The Värmlands Vikingacenter in Sweden has reportedly not been able to sail its replica ship this summer due to $6000 worth of damages; Universal disputes the non-payment claims [...]

Philadelphia opens its Van Gogh Sunflowers display with a very rare loan from London’s National Gallery

‘A Symphony in Blue and Yellow’ raises intriguing questions about how the artist wanted to present his masterpieces [...]

Appeals court sides with Jeff Koons in copyright-infringement dispute over ‘Made in Heaven’ series

The lawsuit was brought by the artist Michael A. Hayden, who created a sculpture that appears in some of the images from the series [...]

Ecuador’s national museum picks new design for $100m home following pushback to original selection and resignations

After criticism on social media, the government scrapped the original selection of a design by Estudio Campo Baeza and Maoda, opting for a proposal led by the Japanese firm Sanaa [...]

Glasgow School of Art says £265m needed to restore destroyed Mackintosh building is ‘unaffordable’

The future of the iconic Art Nouveau building may be in jeopardy following fires in 2014 and 2018, as the Scottish art school looks for external funding [...]

Three Ancient Egyptian tombs with ‘significant’ inscriptions discovered in Saqqara necropolis

Rare carvings may reveal important information about New Kingdom era connections to the Near East and ancient domestic life [...]

A lifetime of war: meet the 94-year-old Ukrainian artist Oleksandr Dubovyk

Having survived his country’s numerous adversaries from Stalin to Putin, the artist has opened his first large-scale retrospective in Kyiv [...]

Jessica Morgan named new Tate director

Currently the director of Dia Art Foundation in New York, Morgan will succeed Maria Balshaw as director of the UK museum network from January 2027 [...]

Lisbon's Museu Calouste Gulbenkian returns to its mid-century modern roots following major renovation

The Portuguese private art collection, which features fine and decorative art from antiquity to the 20th-century, reopened on 18 July [...]

European Union officially pulls €2m Venice Biennale funding over Russian participation

“Cultural events, funded by European taxpayers’ money, should safeguard democratic values—values which are not respected in today’s Russia,” a European Commission spokesman said [...]

Artforum bids farewell to back-cover star in style

Long-running series of quirky advertisements for Bruno Bischofberger’s Swiss gallery has come to an end [...]

Museum acquisitions round-up: a Kandinsky ‘Improvisation’ and a canvas by Minimalist pioneer Agnes Martin

Our pick of the latest gifts and purchases to enter institutional collections worldwide [...]

Yoko Ono’s most famous performance art piece cuts both ways in Los Angeles

The artist MPA put her twist on the seminal "Cut Piece" at Redcat, in tandem with the Broad’s presentation of Ono’s traveling retrospective [...]

Shuttered San Francisco arts school will become college co-named for Nvidia founder Jensen Huang

The anchor institution for Vanderbilt University’s Bay Area campus will be the Jen-Hsun and Lori Huang College of Art, Architecture and Design, in recognition of the couple's $75m gift [...]

Lazin Magazine – High Keys – December 2021 (Digital PDF)